The creation of the solenoid valve by ASCO Numatics in 1910 and the invention of the solenoid (or solenoid switch) by French physicist André-Marie Ampère in the 19th century is perhaps among the most (if not the most) significant breakthroughs of the last two centuries. They not only shaped life-saving technology and modern conveniences, but they are also responsible for daily commuters and hobbyists’ wheelers.
A solenoid switch is a type of switch that uses a modest electrical control signal to switch high-power circuits. This switch primarily relies on decision-making and sophisticated logic circuits to operate on low-cost microchips and small electronic components. It also allows for the confinement of high-power switching equipment to a remote location. Normally, these switches are used to start the engine systems in automobiles. The purpose of this article is to provide an outline of what a solenoid switch is and how it works.
What Is A Solenoid Switch?
A solenoid switch is a component of the starting relay circuit that activates the switch that starts your car. This little component is also found in various industrial, medical, and household applications, including large-scale engines, patient monitoring, and sprinkler systems.
The solenoid switch is a versatile solution for regulating power flow, mechanical interlocks, or electromagnetic switches. “What does a solenoid do?” “Does a solenoid operate as a switch?” and “How do you tell if you have a bad solenoid?” are all questions that most end users have. If that’s the case, keep reading to find out the answers to these questions.
Solenoid Definition
A solenoid is a generic phrase that refers to any device that transforms electrical energy to mechanical energy, such as a coil of wire used as an electromagnet. It connects the battery to the starter motor with relays built for large electric currents.
Some of the most popular uses for solenoids include door locks, speakers, MRI machines, water-pressure valves, and disk drives. Several applications are applied in the medical, industrial, and automotive domains. There are five (5) different types of solenoids in general:
- Rotary solenoid
- DC-C frame solenoid
- DC-D frame solenoid
- AC-laminated solenoid
- Linear solenoid
The following two categories are the most common in automobiles. A starting solenoid, also known as an electric or intermittent solenoid, is an example of a linear solenoid. It is a vital component of your car’s ignition system. It’s commonly positioned on the fender well, firewall, or underneath of the engine, or between the ignition and the engine. Canister purge valve (EVAP) solenoid, tailgate lock solenoid, EGR valve solenoid, shift interlock solenoid and downshift solenoid are examples of other solenoid types that fit into one of these two groups.
Solenoids Vs. Electromagnets
Solenoids are frequently confused with electromagnets because of the function they provide. While their operating principles are similar, they are two distinct entities. A solenoid is nothing more than a coil of wire that becomes an electromagnet when a current is sent through it.
Because of this mechanism, a solenoid is far more helpful than a permanent magnet. Increase the current flow through it or the density of the coil’s turns to increase its electromagnetism. It can also be switched on and off.
The Solenoid Switch
Remote control of high-current flow is necessary with any of the solenoid types discussed above. The solenoid switch, also known as a solenoid valve, comes into play at this point. When the ignition key is turned on in a car, this switch turns on.
It operates on the ignition system’s tiny electrical control signals. These signals, in turn, connect the battery to the starter motor circuit’s drive pinion and control the starter motor’s on/off operation. The intelligent nature of the solenoid switch makes this procedure possible by utilizing decision-making and sophisticated logic circuits.
Any solenoid design that allows for more efficient management of electricity required by a vehicle to start includes a solenoid switch valve. There are six different types of solenoid switch valves, depending on the make and model of your car (and the architecture of its electrical components).
Valve Types
Two-way Valves — can be used in a variety of settings. They alternate between allowing and disallowing intake, and they remain open until current is applied to close the valves.
Direct-acting Valves (2/2 Direct Operated Valves) are the most basic. The coil magnetically elevates the shaft and valve seat when the valves are open or activated. These valves are always completely working even when no outside pressure is applied. The thread size ranges between 0.125 and 0.5 inches in diameter.
Assisted-lift Valves (2/2 Semi-direct Operated Valves) have direct and indirect solenoid valve features. They have a tiny opening, a moveable membrane, and pressure chambers on both sides. The solenoid plunger, unlike indirect valves, attaches directly to the membrane. This mechanism allows this valve type to control rather high flow rates, among other things. The thread size ranges from 0.125 to 4.0 inches in diameter.
Pilot-operated Valves (2/2 Indirect Operated Valves) — use less energy to function, but maintain full power to act slower and remain open. The thread size ranges from 0.5 to 4.0 inches in diameter.
Two-directional action is provided by four-/five-way valves (2/5 solenoid valves). These valves allow double-acting valves with a dual-acting cylinder or actuator to operate intermittently.
Two-directional action is provided by four-/five-way valves (2/5 Solenoid Valves). Double-acting valves with a dual-acting cylinder or actuator can be operated intermittently with these valves.
A solenoid switch valve will deteriorate over time, regardless of the valve type in your car. Exposure to transmission fluid or metal salts, as well as changes in temperature or weather, can all hasten the process. However, knowing when a solenoid has failed is just as crucial as properly caring for and maintaining your vehicle’s components.
Starter Solenoid Problems
A starter solenoid can handle up to 200 volts and would have no trouble starting your car at the turn of the key. So, if all you hear while starting your automobile is a click, a loud screaming sound, or silence, you know there’s a problem. Of course, you should test your batteries to be certain. However, if the battery is good, your problem with the starter solenoid switch is confirmed.
The most common cause of starter solenoid failure is damaged or burned solenoid contacts or armature bushings. Wear-out solenoid connections are indicated by a starter motor that does not run but makes clicking noises. A no-start condition that occurs in full stillness, on the other hand, could indicate damaged starter brushes. The front and rear armature bushings are to blame if your starter motor makes a slow, loud noise.
The starter’s failure to reset, sucking action, the solenoid’s inability to work up the starter and cause rotation, no-turnover despite a functioning starter motor, and intermittent engine starting are all documented symptoms.
Error Codes
There are instances when the Check Engine Light comes on and several trouble codes. The following are the most typical error codes that indicate a problem with the starter solenoid or relay:
- P0615– Starter Relay Circuit
- P0616– Starter Relay Circuit Low
- P0617– Starter Relay Circuit High
If you simply see P0615, you’re probably dealing with a bad starting solenoid. If two or more fault codes emerge, numerous components in the starter circuit may need to be inspected. In the absence of an error code, you should consider a malfunctioning ignition switch, starter motor, or wiring. Remember that overheating, moisture, and over tightening of nuts and screws can all cause a starter solenoid to fail.
Transmission Solenoid Switch Problems
Strange problems with shifting or unexpected error messages on the dash are but a few of the telltale signs pointing to a faulty shift or transmission solenoid. However, because changing it can be pricey – a full transmission solenoid kit, including valve body replacement, can cost anywhere from $400 to $1,000 – make sure you’re experiencing these precise symptoms before proceeding with the instructions below:
- The Check Engine Light Is On (usually comes with a P0700 trouble code)
- The light that indicates transmission (only applicable for certain vehicles and may pertain to a stored trouble code)
- Problems with downshifting and upshifting (delayed shifting or abnormally high/low RPMs)
- Have difficulty engaging or skipping gears? (one of the biggest indications of a shift solenoid problem)
- Stuck in a rut (indicates a solenoid got damaged while a specific gear was engaged)
- Limp mode (you can only change up to 3rd gear and your RPM cannot exceed 2,500–3.000)
The check engine light does not always indicate a damaged transmission solenoid; it might also indicate a faulty VVT solenoid or Variable Valve Timing solenoid. Use a diagnostic scanner to make sure you’re replacing the correct non-working solenoid. (TIP: In addition to the Check Engine Light coming on, bad VVT solenoid symptoms frequently include lower fuel economy, rough idling, or power loss.) A simple transmission flush can sometimes solve the problem).
How to Test a Solenoid
The process for testing a solenoid is significantly dependent on the type of solenoid suspected of having a fault; approaches for on/off and regulating solenoids are considerably different.
If the solenoid is ordinarily open, the opposite should be true (the solenoid valve position where it allows the oil or current to flow from the inlet to the outlet). On the other hand, regulating solenoids will produce different findings when tested and will be less sensitive to excessive inlet pressure than the former.
If the solenoid is ordinarily open, the opposite should be true (the solenoid valve position where it allows the oil or current to flow from the inlet to the outlet). On the other hand, regulating solenoids will produce different findings when tested and will be less sensitive to excessive inlet pressure than the former.
● First, make sure the battery isn’t the source of the problem.
Set the voltmeter to a range higher than the battery voltage when doing this test. A measurement of 12.4V to 12.6V indicates that the battery is fully charged. Proceed to the next stage if your reading falls within this range.
● Do the “Click Test.”
This is accomplished by having a friend start the automobile while you remain at a safe distance from the solenoid. Your solenoid may be underpowered or malfunctioning if you hear a weak or repetitive sound (or none at all).
● Using a multimeter, check the voltage on your solenoid.
Set your automated multimeter to ohms if you have one. If you don’t have it set to 2k ohms, do so manually.
● Across the pins of the solenoid coil, place the multimeter probes.
If you’re working with a coil that has three (3) pins, leave the flat one out and use the multimeter to connect the other two.
● Attach the Wires.
Connect the multimeter’s positive wire to the positive terminal and the equivalent terminal to the negative wire. Start the engine again with a friend – there should be a voltage drop as soon as the ignition is turned on.
● Note the Readings.
Take note of the multimeter values and check to verify if the coil resistance is within the manufacturer’s suggested range. A value of 0 ohms indicates that the solenoid coil is shorted, whereas a reading of infinity indicates that the coil is broken.
The multimeter may show a proper reading in rare circumstances, but the solenoid coil is not working. When this happens, use a screwdriver to test the coil. After that, energize the solenoid by placing the screwdriver near the armature. The coil is good if it detects the presence of a magnetic force. Otherwise, you’ll have to get a new one.
A hydraulic solenoid testing machine (with specialized adapters for each solenoid) is the most accurate and, by far, the greatest equipment to utilize out of all the testing apparatuses available today. This machine not only has a wide range of applications, but it also comes with instructions on how to conduct the testing. However, unless you have your car shop, a voltmeter, jumper cables, and safety gear, as well as eyewear, would suffice to perform tests on a malfunctioning solenoid coil.
Conclusion
The solenoid switch is essential for proper vehicle operation. It’s just as crucial to know how to diagnose and fix problems with it as it is with major car components like the battery, transmission, and engine. It can be difficult to understand wiring, starter circuits, and power systems. However, with the knowledge in this article, you should be able to handle solenoid switch problems with newfound confidence.
Lastly, we at ICRFQ are the best solenoid switch manufacturers in China. Contact us today and place an order, and we won’t disappoint.
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